CULEBRA

From Vieques our plan was to sail straight to St.Thomas. Sunday, January 5th we left Bahia de Chiva early in the morning, the winds and the waves were high already. We were eager to sail. Instead of east towards St.Thomas we turned north to Culebra and flew with all the sails up 8 and 9 knots all the way.

The first time for us, Culebra surprised us with many bays and beaches. We could anchor anywhere we desired. We dropped the anchor in the Ensenada Honda, from there a short dinghy ride took us to the town Culebra. Towns on any island are quieter on Sundays then any other day of the week (and beaches are crowded with locals), but Culebra was lively, the traffic on narrow streets moving fast, too fast, ferries going to other islands and coming back.
We found a picturesque 'SANDBAR' with WI-FI, and as usual, a beer.

Approaching one of Culebra's anchorages behind the coral reef

Ensenada Honda, were we anchored, is connected to Sonda de Vieques by a narrow canal. The bridge over it used to be draw bridge, it is no more, only small power boats and dinghies can squeeze under it.

 

 

Visiting the town Culebra:

 

 

 

 

 

 

A yard full of art 

 

The 'SANDBAR'

Join the fun
 

VIEQUES

Puerto Patilla was our last stop on Puerto Rico. To leave the bay we had to wait for the daylight, as there were many fish pots around the entrance into the bay. Winds and waves were unavoidable on the passage sailing east to Vieques. The wind was ENE, we were able to motor sail the 36 NM to Bahia de Chiva on Vieques. In this large bay we were in the company of just another sail boat. The bay is on the east side partly protected by the coral reef, not enough to prevent the swells. we were rocked to sleep at night. A small hydroplane landed in the bay and it was pulled on the beach, after lunch it left again. What life!

Miles long beach in the Bahia de Chiva on Vieques

 

SALINAS AND PATILLA, PUERTO RICO

Entrance into the next bay, Salinas, is shallow, our sailboat draws seven feet and the depth sounder was showing five feet. We never touched the sandy bottom, so we proceeded slowly, until the bay opened into the beautiful round anchorage, filled up with many sailboats. We spent one night there in a calms in an area, well protected with high mangrove. Salinas has a small marina with a bar, it's deck extending over the water. A lovely spot to have a beer and a chat with other sailors.


 

Salinas anchorage, high Puerto Rico mountains in the background
 

Blooming mango tree
 

21 NM sailing east from Salinas we anchored in Puerto Patilla, a large open bay by the small village
Patilla. The anchorage is protected from the swells by a mile long coral reel. The beach is volcanic, dark grey. A busy road runs along the shore. Instead of a music we got used to from Karel's Bar in Kralendijk, we hear the trucks and the blasting sounds from the cars, driven by the deaf people (or soon to be)
We stayed two nights as the day was rainy and misty, strong wind swept over the sea. By next morning the storm was over and we were ready to rise our sails again.



Puerto Patilla

An early start rewarded us with a beautiful sunrise

 

LEAVING BONAIRE

Sailing by the north end of Bonaire, the image of the island changes. Charming Kralendijk is replaced by rocky coast, only here and there white spots indicating small beaches.
Only here, in the north, the mountains rise high above the water, making the island visible for sailors from a distance.

 

The tall cacti, hidden among yellow blooming thorny bush, will in a month or two, when the rainy season ends, reclaim the lowlands and the hills of this desert island.

The three days sailing from Bonaire NE would have been uneventful but for a good catch of about 20 pounds tuna, two wahoos and a cero. Coming within the sight of Puerto Rico, we hooked two large barracudas. We were able to save one, we unhooked it and let it swim to life. The other we couldn't.

Skipjack tuna

Wahoo

But how uneventful is it really, when you we are sailing in a light of a full moon, reflecting off the sail fish, escaping the bow of our sailboat? When the only sound  we hear is the song of the waves against the boat?

The unfortunate wind direction from ENE brought us to Boqueron on west side of Puerto Rico, about 120 NM west of our intented landing. We slept a few hours, then motor sailed 40 NM to Ponce. There we reported to US Customs and Immigration and had another near unpleasant encounter with the US authorities. We got away with a written warning for disposing trash in the marina trash container. The fine for that is $5000. We didn't know about this regulation. We thought we were so good saving all the waste until we landed and not trashing the beautiful Caribbean Sea.

Slowly we were tacking and motor sailing east, leaving the anchorages before the daybreak to avoid high winds and waves.

 

BONAIRE, ONE MORE LOOK

The surroundings of the tennis courts come to life, when the sea grapes start ripening. The love birds, so called by the Bonaireans, feed on them from morning till dark, spitting the pits onto the tennis courts.

Sea grapes

Love birds

Rough start 

Bonaire marina, surrounded by condominions

Patrice and Claudia took care of us in a nice French restaurant
'Bistro de Paris' within the marina

Salt fields

A mount of salt

The content of salt is high in the lagoon, where salt is colected.
Only one type of algie grows here and it is red. Bonaireans will
tell you, that flamingoes are pink, because they feed here. Should
those, that feed in a muddy lagoon across from the marina,
be brown?

Astrid and Chris, my diving instructors



Klein Bonaire in a sunset