SABA, DUTCH ANTILLES



We left Virgin Gorda early afternoon on the 9th of April. We intended sailing to Saint Martin, but the persistent east wind brought us to Saba.
Sailing through the night, we arrived there at a daybreak and Saba appeared as a mysterious dark rock rising from the sea.

A light high up on the hill was the sign of life, and then the first morning sun rays outlined a few daring little white houses clenching on to the cliffs.

Mooring area


800 steps carved into the rock lead to the Ladder Bay

Until 1940 all the supplies for Saba were by the way of the Ladder Bay and from there carried up the steps. 1943 the road was built to the Fort Bay on the island's south side. The supplies included things like a large safe and piano.

We hung on to the mooring for two days before the seas calmed enough for us to place the motor onto the dinghy. We were determined to visit Saba this time. We moored by the Saba before for a few hours to be rested for an overnight sail to Puerto Rico.

We took a tour with a nice guide and a good driver Cornelius. The road was carved into the rock, some places it felt as if we were hanging over a sea far below us.

Cornelius and Polde

Saba looks rocky from a distance, but it is a green island, especially on the 3000 ft top, almost always hugged by the cloud.

On the five square miles only two main villages are spread over the mountains' saddles. The houses are neat, white with red roofs, well maintained and enchanted with gardens.

 

1500 Sabans are descendants of Dutch, Scottish and English settlers, and some Africans, who originally came to the island as slaves. They have a strong sense of community and are well organized. Schools, daycare, a home for elderly and handicapped, they have it all. Saba is clean, touring it we saw gloved  teenagers with trash bags picking up whatever the wind swirled into the bushes. Cornelius told us that keeping Saba clean is the duty of the school children.

There are also 400 medical students from all over the world living on Saba. It is not unusual for a Caribbean island to have a medical school. Quiet a few do.

Saba doesn't have beaches, tourists are mostly divers and sailors like us, passing by once a year.
There is a lot to see besides the spectacular views, visiting their galleries and shops with local crafts is a special treat. Lacework brought here centuries ago from the Venezuela, became Saba's tradition.

Learned the lacework from her ancestors, a Saban woman continues the
 tradition while being a museum caretaker

 Glass- flame formed beads are crafted with silver and gold into elegant jewelry.

A walk through the town called Bottom:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you are not a sailor, you can visit Saba by plane. An airport was built here virtually by hands. It's runway is 400 meters long and planes were especially designed to land here.

 

Come, Saba is the island of beautiful surprises.

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

JOST VAN DYKE

We let the authorities know our presence on the BVIs in the Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke. We have been here thirty years ago, chartering a sailboat with Cheri and Ken Yazi.

Then already famous FOXY's was a small shad on the beach, sheltered with palm trees. A bar, on it's counter a baby, that needed changing and a German shepherd chasing a monkey. FOXY's had not changed it's simplicity and friendliness, but expended with a restaurant and a clothing store.

Great Harbour

FOXY's bar



 



After a short stop on Little Jost Van Dyke and picturesque, but rolly Guana, we sailed to

VIRGIN GORDA

We anchored in a quiet Robin Bay in the North Sound, away from all the traffic and yet close to dinghy to more populated spots of this so popular Virgin Gorda area. Docking the dinghy somewhere safe, we walked to reach the views of both sides of the island

East side of the island, as always beautiful, but rough

Bitter End and Saba Rock on the left
 

Bitter End is a polished place with a marina, beautifully paved walkways, restaurants and bars and a small store, where you can supply yourself with a bottle of wine, it you can affort it.

 

To stretch our legs we walked over the hill to another of many bays, Leverick Bay with a marina and resort

Leverick Bay

Leverick Bay Resort

 

 

 

 

There is no public transportation on BVIs. We took a taxi to Spanish Town on the SW side of Virgin Gorda. Our starting point was Gun Creek Bay, the Port of Entry

Gun Creek Bay

The road from here runs along the shores and over the mountains, the views are breathtaking (and so is the ride).

West and east side of the island, Spanish Town in a distance
 

Spanish Town, a small place, but with a nice marina, boat yard and a good grocery store.

Spanish Town Marina
 

On our walks we have seen many lived-in half built houses. New generation come, the owners will finish their home, needing a space

 

 

An afternoon rest