Sunday, November 29, 2009

The Boat Yard Characters

We have been on the boat yard long enough to know everybody here, working force and sailors, preparing their boats for this sailing season. We have heard the question "When are you going in" to many times. Nobody asks that question Maira and her husband. He is French and she is British. He is 90 years old and she is 87. They brought seven children to Earth, that took two of them back. One was lost to the sea and their sailboat was named after him: "Marc le Novice". It is the shiniest boat on the boat yard and the only one, that has grass growing underneath it. The old couple work on it five hours a day, making sure, there will be more work tomorrow. Yesterday they painted the top of the cabin. It didn't come out quite right, so they are doing it over today. Sometimes he wonders around the boat yard and she makes sure, he doesn't wonder to far. It has been years since their sailboat had the taste of salt, and it will be polished, until there is any energy left in the old couple.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Concert

As many times before Polde and I went for an evening walk through Gros Islet last night. The town lays between the marina and the two resorts boarding with Pigeon Island. It has a beach with fine sand, where on weekends families bring their kids, their belongings and food to grill. A couple of years ago St. Lucia's government wanted to sell the beach, so that another resort would be build there, but town people protested and won. There are many skinny dogs laying or simply standing on the streets, waiting for the leftovers. There will be grilling going on soon in front of modest homes, chicken and fish with beans and rice. Mini bars are on every corner, but we never saw drunk people on the streets. Maybe we are there to early. The church, looking out of place standing tall among shacks, was lit up. Music attracted us and we came in to enjoy listening to the chorus of teenagers singing soul songs, accompanied by the guitarist, the saxophonist and the drummer. It was a moving experiance.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Black

We painted the bottom of the boat yesterday. Now I have an outfit with black dots all over it. Polde didn't wear a shirt, so he is dotted instead. By the time "Nada" goes into the water, we'll be wearing a lot of colours, depending on the job we'll be doing. Our main colour, of course, will be red, the sun is beating on us, while we are working. Besides painting, Polde installed the new GPS. After being on St. Lucia two weeks, we can finally see the water, on the screen, of course.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

The bus

Every day we make a trip to the hardware store or to the marina to marine shop to buy tools or instruments. A good grocery store is further away, so we take a mini bus, well run public transportation on St. Lucia. For 55 US cents you go a long way and you never have to wait, so many buses, one leaves, the next arrives. Yesterday we went to Castries, the Capitol of St. Lucia, a 20 minutes ride. Suddenly, something blocks a beautiful turquoise view of the bay. It is another bus. This can not be a two lane road!? But it is and it is curving and the vehicles parallel to each other go through the curves exactly the same way or they wouldn't fit. And we know what happens if they don't fit. Drivers constantly beep short beeps to greet other bus drivers coming towards them, or to somebody walking on the side of the road (I don't know how they recognise the person at the speed they are driving), and to the cars in front, that don't go fast enough. Every ride on a bus is an experience and fun. People are in and out of the bus at every bus stop. There are Bus stop signs along the road, but the driver will stop, when the passenger calls out: "Driver, stop!" By the time we arrived to the Castries, faces on the bus had changed a couple of times. When school is out, kids ride home on the public buses. They look nice, but awkward in their uniforms, boys with ties or snowy white T-shirts, girls in pleated skirts, their hair pulled back tight, or braided. They all wear shoes that seem to big for them, but then, St. Lucians are tall, sooner or later they will need big shoes.

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Old acquaintances

We have new lockers on the boat yard, but the same two ladies are keeping them clean. Helen and Julia. Julia is a big woman. Before we left in spring, she asked me to send some bras from the States. "I have a hard time getting them here", she said. "What kind?" I asked, and before I could stop here, she flipped her blouse up with the tips of her fingers. The sight was so impressive, I didn't notice the bra. But DD was the largest I could get. We saw Booms again. Not on the bike i gave him. He owed money to another villager, who took the bike instead and sold it to somebody else. Booms came to offer his services, saying: "You were good to me, I'll be good to you." He told us he had a new girlfriend besides his teenage daughter. He needs money. Our fruit man Gregory in his handmade boat, decorated with many flags, doesn't have a lot of business yet. The marina is nearly empty, since the hurricane season officialy ends at the end of November. So he comes to the boat yard and knocks on boats, that have laundry hanging over the decks. With only a few costumers his prices are better too, or I should say he gives you more for your money. And he trys to please, he found some mangos for me, even though they are not in season yet.

Friday, November 6, 2009

All is well

We found "Nada" as we left her, though she was moved around, when the boat yard was being renovated. No small or large pests hiding inside. That was a relief. Last year on our old "Nada" it took us months to get rid of las cucarachas, the Caribbean flying beasts. It is 85 F, but it feels like a 100. Quick showers don't cool the air, but they give moisture and energy to coming spring. Some trees are already wearing their colourful blooming crowns and hills have velvety green blankets of new foliage. Nature was generous here in colour and beauty.

Sailing season 2009/10

October 23rd. We are back on St. Lucia. The plane lands late in the evening and yet the air is hot, humid. Waiting to get through the Customs, Polde and I look at each other and smile. "What's the rush, mon?" This is the tropics that we love so much: the heat, the pace, the people we got to know through the last few years. There are a lot of taxi drivers waiting for the last plane of the day. "How much to the boat yard?" "Twenty." "All right." The driver looks at the luggage. "A lot. That will have to be extra." Of course we have luggage and of course we are not leaving it on the side of the curb and we don't mind paying extra. Our driver is a middle aged man. He puts on a soft music and off we go into this sailing season's adventures.